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Friday, February 24, 2006

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Spain, Cap de Begur

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Spring is almost upon us, and by now, you should have booked your big shot of European sunshine for this summer. But you can't decide where to go. Wouldn't it be brilliant if there was a destination with a bit of everything? Sun and sand; sensational scenery; a spot of culture and history; and the chance to put on some Lycra and play the daredevil. We've found four part of the Med that tick every box. These are Europe's all star destinations, chosen by writers who know their countries inside out.

Spain, Cap de Begur

The Costa Brava's reputation as one giant, writhing Lloret de Mar beast has, ironically, helped guard some of its treasures. Only 40 minutes from Girona, the Cap de Begur is one of the best, garlanded with lovely beaches and whitewashed fishing villages, and with sporting and cultural attractions that range from the sublime to the surreal.

The sun: Summer in Begur means that intoxicating scent of pine and lazy days by the sea, especially if you find southern Spain suffocatingly hot in July and August. The cape is remarkably varied: cliffs pirouette from the sea, Blue Flag beaches shelve gently into clear waters and the deep azure of coves such as Aiguablava teeters on the edge of Fauvism. There are beaches for all tastes, from stunning L'Illa Roja, a naturist beach tantalising enough to make your grandmother skinny-dip, to the child-friendly, golden sands of Llafranc or the Platja de Raco. Or there's isolated Platja Fonda. 9/10

The countryside: Citrus, carobs, pinewoods and cork oaks adorn the coast; fields of maize and red poppies fill the plains behind; and the bluish green of the Pyrenees haunts the horizon. Medieval towns form an integral part of the landscape: romantic castle-topped Begur, Pals and Peratallada, and Ullastret, with its ancient Iberian fortifications. 7/10

The culture: Begur is immersed in a rich Catalan stew of culture. Get surreally misinformed at the Dali Museum, in Figueras, and visit the maestro's quirky seaside house near the bijou art colony of Cadaques. The outstanding Romanesque monastery of Sant Pere de Rodes looms on the headland above; the Graeco-Roman ruins of Empuries overlook the Gulf of Roses. Inland, Girona conserves an astonishing Gothic cathedral with the widest nave in Christendom, the 11th-century Tapestry of Creation and Arab Baths. The Catalan sea-and-mountain cuisine is excellent - although you'll need to book a year in advance to bag a table at El Bulli, in Cala Montjol, one of the world's best restaurants. And if all that's not enough, Barcelona is a day trip away. 10//10

The activity: Watersports are all catered for around Begur's cape, while divers flock north to the stunning Medes islets, off Estrartit, a protected marine reserve teeming with friendly fish. One of the many dive centres is Xalos. There are excellent golf courses, including Pals. Or walk the enchanting coastal path from Begur to Llafranc. 8/10

(This article is taken from The Sunday Times Travel Magazine)


Alan Aldana

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